Do this
Spread shio-koji over the meat in a bag. Press the air out. Rest it in the fridge for eight to twelve hours.
Why it works
Protease cuts protein into amino acids and many of those taste of umami. Amylase makes sugar, so the surface browns faster.
When to skip it
Skip it for thin slices. The enzymes reach the middle in an hour and the texture turns soft and pasty.